Luke Leitch meets the menswear designers of Louis Vuitton, Z Zegna, and Rag & Bone - an elite quartet of British menswear designers who have swapped London for Paris, Milan and Manhattan.
BY Luke Leitch | 10 April 2013
Kim Jones of Louis Vuitton After two years as menswear designer for France's grandest luxury marque, Kim Jones could, if he wanted to, just about describe himself as a Parisian. After all, he has a flat in the 1st arrondissement in the streets of Little Japan, just north of the Grand Palais, that's a convenient 10-minute walk from his studio at Louis Vuitton. At weekends he enjoys the grand galleries of the Right Bank, walking his miniature pinschers, Dexter and Lulu Fishpaw, and window-shopping in the backstreets.
Jones, though, remains firmly English. 'I'm a definite expat, that's for sure,' he says when we meet in that studio. Unrepentantly Anglo-Saxon, he cheerily confesses that his French is not up to scratch yet - 'everyone in the studio speaks English, and I haven't got any spare time to do the homework' - a situation not helped by his fondness for watching British TV on satellite. He is a regular haunter of WH Smith by the Jardin des Tuileries to catch up on the English press - 'they've got a brilliant selection of magazines' - and BookMarc (owned by Louis Vuitton's creative director, Marc Jacobs) for weightier tomes. Food-wise, Jones favours Ralph's - Ralph Lauren's restaurant - for a Sunday lunch that's light on the garlic ('It's nice to have something a bit English-y if you're feeling homesick').
READ: Bhutan meets Brit-Art at Kim Jones' Himalayan Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2013 show
It's not as if Jones, 33, is unadventurous. Professionally, his previous incarnations as designer for Dunhill and his own label garnered rapturous acclaim for their precise and playful take on contemporary streetwear and tailoring. And at Vuitton, where he is the figurehead for the masculine half of what is among the most globally recognised brands in the fashion industry, he has embarked on a brilliantly straightforward conceit around which to frame his biannual collections: a world tour.
On the day we met in Paris, Jones was adding the very final touches to his collection for this autumn, a collection that drew much of its inspiration from Bhutan. Slightly manic from the weight of his impending deadline, Jones took me to the rails to see his Himalaya-ready deerskin parkas, marble-ornamented carabiners, some great jackets and overcoats in yak felt (who knew?), Vuitton-ised luxury hiking boots (ostentatious, but knowingly so), blankets in Bhutanese check, shirt-studs made from stone taken from Mt Everest itself, and even a traditional Vuitton trunk transformed into a sherpa-ready backpack.
Looks from the Louis Vuitton spring/summer and autumn/winter 2013 shows. Photos: Getty/REX
'The truth is,' he says, 'I'm probably only in Paris about half of my time.' To research this collection, he went on an extended fact-finding mission to Bhutan. There is a full set of yellow-spined copies of National Geographic shelved tellingly behind his desk, and although he won't reveal the next country on his radar, he talks with particular enthusiasm about Papua New Guinea before adding, 'but how many countries are there in the world? Hundreds. I'd be dead before I could do them all.'
See the article here:
Brits abroad: expat menswear designers