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Standing in the blue-tiled shadows of one of Irans greatest mosques, armed with a dish of sesame caramel snacks, Mohammed Reza Zamani is a cleric on a mission to repair the countrys image in the west, one tourist at a time.

Free Friendly Talks a billboard announces in English, at the entrance to a historic religious seminary-turned-museum, in the central city of Isfahan, a former imperial capital so beautiful that even today Iranians describe the city as half the world.

Tourism brings both money and a more positive international image for Iran, says Zamani, 36, a theology student, who is keen to ensure that visitors who might once have been alarmed by his clerical turban and robes feel welcome in his city.

I think the moment they set foot in Iran [foreigners] find it totally different from what they expect, and their minds are changed by the people when visitors talk to us, he said, as he took a short break between explaining marriage and circumcision traditions to a group of Italians and discussing millenarian religious beliefs with a man from the Netherlands.

Irans reformist president, Hassan Rouhani, staked his government and reputation on opening Iran to the world, sealing a nuclear deal that ended sanctions and courting foreign investment in its wake.

Rouhani was re-elected for a second term in a landslide victory last weekend, a sweeping endorsement of his policy from the Iranian people. And for many Iranians the growing flood of foreigners armed with guidebooks and selfie sticks is one of the most visible signs of change and re-engagement.

Isfahan lives by tourists, said Masood Mohamedian, a former lorry driver who this year gambled all his savings on opening a small cafe serving traditional snacks just off the main square. I am 100% happy with Rouhani as president.

Tourism to Iran might seem like a hard sell. The initial problem is the countrys reputation, tied up inextricably for many in the west with dramatic television images of the US embassy hostage crisis from 1979-81, and the fatwa issued in 1989 against Salman Rushdie for his book The Satanic Verses. More recently, the crackdown that followed disputed 2009 elections, and arrests of figures such as Washington Post journalist Jason Rezaian, have done little to soften that image. And the countrys conservative religious and social rules, which visitors must observe along with citizens, might deter some westerners.

There is little public nightlife, no alcohol, men and women cannot kiss or embrace in public, and women in particular must observe a relatively strict dress code, wearing a headscarf and covering their arms and legs. But tens of thousands of people have decided that Irans attractions far outweigh those constraints. And Iran has tried to encourage them by easing restrictions on travel.

Europeans from countries including France, Italy and Germany, who account for the majority of western tourists, can now get visas on arrival in Tehran, and at the main sites they mingle with sightseers from China, Japan and elsewhere.

When the sanctions were lifted, I decided to come as soon as possible, said Simonetta Marfoglia, an Italian tourist who was halfway through a two-week trip. I had read a lot of Iranian poetry, and I am very interested in the history of the region. I am really very happy to be visiting: the people are wonderful, there is great hospitality, and its very friendly.

The country boasts an extraordinarily rich cultural heritage, from the ruins of ancient Persepolis to Isfahan and other historic cities, such as Kashan, Tabriz and Shiraz.

Food-lovers can feast on dishes from a sophisticated cuisine that is winning increasing recognition in the west, with dishes such as fesenjan, a rich, tart and sweet chicken stew thick with walnuts and pomegranate molasses.

There are also bazaars packed with carpets and handicrafts for shoppers, a thriving contemporary arts scene and spectacular natural beauty ranging from beaches to stark deserts and snow-capped mountains. .

Together these factors have fuelled a dramatic rise in western tourists to Iran, although the majority of its two million visitors are still religious pilgrims visiting its major shrines.

Isfahan, the jewel in Irans heritage crown and more a destination for tourists than pilgrims, counted just over 5,000 visitors a month in 2013, when Rouhani came to power. By spring 2017 that number had risen to 85,000 in a single month, the newspaper Isfahan Today reported.

The surge in visitors has been so dramatic that some nights in high season every single hotel room in the city is taken, according to the receptionist at the newly built Zenderood Hotel.

Foreign hotel chains are eyeing the market enthusiastically, particularly since some of the biggest American players are still in effect barred. US sanctions have stayed in place after the nuclear-linked bans were lifted, leaving the field clear for European and other groups. Dubai-based Rotana Hotels is the latest firm to unveil plans for a new hotel in Isfahan, following the likes of the French chain Accor.

Spanish heritage hotel company Paradores is also looking at opportunities in the country, whose famous hotels include a former caravanserai that housed traders bringing lucrative goods to market in the 16th century.

The biggest challenge to Irans goal of increasing tourist numbers tenfold within the decade may be the pace of change they represent, in a country where Rouhanis conservative rival still managed to garner 16 million votes in the election.

I am unhappy about their cultural impact, because of their customs, grumbled Mohammed Paknahad, a shopkeeper in Isfahans bazaar, who said tourists rarely bought his handicrafts. Some of the women dont cover their bodies properly.

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The guidebooks and selfie-sticks arrive as Rouhani's Iran declares itself open to all - The Guardian

New York Times

US Sees a Vital Iraqi Toll Road, but Iran Sees a Threat New York Times This being Iraq, though, the project has quickly been caught up in geopolitics, sectarianism and tensions between the United States and Iran, which seems determined to sabotage the highway project as an unacceptable projection of American influence ... FM Ja'afari: Iraq will never join anti-Iran frontPress TV all 5 news articles »

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US Sees a Vital Iraqi Toll Road, but Iran Sees a Threat - New York Times

Iran's Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei criticized a US weapons deal amounting to $110 billion (98 billion euros) announced last week between the US and Saudi Arabia, saying Saudi's leaders were "idiots" and "milk cows for the Americans."

"They [Saudi leaders] act cordially towards the enemies of Islam while having the opposite behavior towards the Muslim people of Bahrain and Yemen," Khamenei said, referring to the targeted suppression of Shiite communities in those countries.

Last week, US President Donald Trump signed a multi-billion weapons deal with Saudi Arabia during his visit to the kingdom, where he called for regional allies to further isolate Iran.

Saudi officials have often described Iran as the premier state sponsor of terrorism in the region, saying it aims to destabilize the Middle East and export its revolution to other countries.

'Iranian threats'

Tensions have risen between Saudi Arabia and Iran since Trump's ascension to the presidency, in part due to his policy shift on the Islamic republic.

Under former US President Barack Obama's administration, Washington and the international community, including Germany,hammered out a deal that curbed Iran's nuclear program in exchange for dropping sanctions. However, Trump has called for a tougher stance on Iran.

"This package of defense equipment and services support the long-term security of Saudi Arabia and the Gulf region in the face of Iranian threats," a White House official said when announcing the US-Saudi arms deal last week.

'Moderation and rationality'

Iranian President Hassan Rouhani, known as a pragmatic reformist, offered a more constructive tone for the future of Iran's relations with Gulf nations in remarks made to Qatar's Emir Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani.

"We want the rule of moderation and rationality in the relations between countries and we believe that a political solution should be a priority," Rouhani said. "The countries of the region need more cooperation and consultations to resolve the crisis in the region and we are ready to cooperate in this field."

Relations between Iran and Saudi Arabia have plunged since 2016, when protesters stormed the Saudi Arabian embassy in Tehran and set fire to the building. The demonstration had been triggered by Saudi Arabia's execution of a Shiite cleric.

Last year, Khamenei lashed out at Saudi Arabia for excluding Iranians during the Haj pilgrimage, in part a response to the 2015 crush and stampede that killed 2,411 worshippers in Mecca, Islam's holiest site.

Simple, but functional - this building consisting of one room only was constructed in the sixth millennium BC. The exhibition "Iran. Ancient Culture Between Water and Desert" in Bonn's Bundeskunsthalle museum shows how people lived in the region from the sixth millennium BC until Darius I became king of Persia and founded the Achaemenid dynasty in 522 BC.

The Tower of Babel has been associated by scholars with the Etemenanki, a ziggurat dedicated to the Mesopotamian god Marduk by Nabopolassar, king of Babylonia. It was demolished by Alexander the Great. The story linked to it was meant to explain the origin of different languages. It was recorded in Genesis, the first book of the Jewish Tanakh and the Old Testament.

Among the exhibits are backgammon boards made of soap stone and beautifully decorated with snakes and birds. The Royal Game of Ur was already played all over Western Asia in the third millennium BC. Also called the Game of 20 Squares, it is still popular today.

In 2001, police succeeded in safeguarding significant findings that had been looted from the plain of Jiroft, in particular beautiful vessels made of chlorite. This item here dates back to the third millennium BC. Chlorite abounds in a quarry located in Tepe Yahya roughly 90 kilometers from the archaeological site.

Wealthy people who lived back then are believed to have drunk wine from gold goblets at the tombs of their dead. The goblets used during these ceremonies give proofof highly developed manual and technical skills. Half-human and half-animal creatures decorated the cups like reliefs. Their heads were added later on.

Is this a fairy tale of 1,001 nights? This heavy gold jewelry including rings, bracelets and chains, was found in a tomb of two Elamite princesses in the village of Jubaji close to the Persian Gulf in 2007. The princesses were also provided with food and religious items believed to assist them during their journey to the next world.

Tshogha Zanbil was the residential city of King Untash-Napirisha (1275-1240 BC). It was surrounded by three huge walls. As the finding of thousands of bricks there suggests, there might have been plans to expand the city.

The Persian Garden has been named a UNESCO's World Heritage Site. A typical inner court garden was reconstructed for the exhibition in Bonn's Bundeskunsthalle. The central water basin with fountains offers refreshment. It is flanked by exotic flower beds. People can relax in a loggia with couches. High walls protect them against the sun - and curious onlookers.

Author: Sabine Oelze (ad)

ls/jlw (AP, Reuters, dpa)

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Iran's Supreme Leader calls the Saudi leaders 'idiots' - Deutsche Welle

Irans Supreme Leader said Saturday that Saudi Arabia is a cow being milked by the U.S.

Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, speaking at an event marking the first day of Ramadan, accused Saudi Arabia of trading its wealth with pagans and enemies, according to the semi-official Fars news agency.

"The stupid Saudi government thinks it can attract the friendship of enemies by giving them money," he said.

Khamenei added that Saudi Arabias rulers faced certain downfall for aligning itself with the U.S, Reuters reported.

"They act cordially towards the enemies of Islam while having the opposite behavior towards the Muslim people of Bahrain and Yemen," he said. "They will face certain downfall.

The Supreme Leaders comments come a week after President Donald Trump signed a $110 billion weapons deal with Saudi Arabia during his visit to the kingdom.

Meanwhile, Iranian President Hassan Rouhani earlier called for improved relations with Gulf nations during a phone call with the emir of Qatr, Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani.

We want the rule of moderation and rationality in the relations between countries and we believe that a political solution should be a priority," Rouhani was quoted as saying. "The countries of the region need more cooperation and consultations to resolve the crisis in the region and we are ready to cooperate in this field.

The Associated Press contributed to this report.

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Iran's Supreme Leader Khamenei lashes out against Saudi Arabia for strengthening US ties - Fox News

Cities & Architecture Without protection, Irans spectacular American-and Italian-designed mid-century structures will be reduced to dust, beams and concrete blocks.

A view of Tehran, with its mix of traditional and modern design. Credit: Jrn Eriksson/Flickr: CC BY-ND

Hassan Rouhanis re-election as Irans president has rekindled hope for liberals in the country. During his first term, Iran began edging closer to the West, and his positions on both international and domestic affairs indicate further openness to its influence.

Current battleground issues in Iran include not just social and economic policy but also cultural concerns. Specifically, say architects and historians, Iran must take action to protect its modern architectural heritage before its too late.

Iran is known for its magnificent Persian design but, in the late 19th and 20th century, its capital Tehran saw renowned Western architects, including prominent modernists such as Frank Lloyd Wright (1867-1959), build some of the citys iconic structures.

Today, some have been razed and many more are in danger of demolition or collapse. Without protection, these buildings, which bear testament to Irans historic openness to the West, will be reduced to dust, beams and concrete blocks.

A disappearing modern heritage

On January 19, 2017, the Plasco Tower, a 17-story high-rise, collapsed in the centre of Tehran killing more than 20 firefighters and injuring dozens.

The iconic building was designed by American architects Benjamin Brown and Spero Daltas who set up shop in Tehran in 1957 during the rule of King Mohammad Reza Shah (1941-1979). The Shah had made it his mission to construct in Iran a great civilisation. To do so, Tehran had to become a modern globalised city, with vast avenues and planned design.

Irans 20th-century modernisation process coincided with that of many other Middle Eastern countries. Nations such as Egypt, Turkey and Iran felt a need to infuse their ancient civilisations with new ideas and influence, including Western infrastructure and educational models.

Tehrans American-designed master plan called for a series of residential and commercial areas linked by highways. Credit: Self/Wikimedia, CC BY-ND

In Iran, the process was fuelled by increasing oil revenue, which helped finance massive new developments that would turn its capital into a modern metropolis. For these ambitious plans, the government hired Western architects, urban planners and other experts to come work in Tehran.

The American planner Victor Gruen devised the citys 1968 master plan, conceiving of an expansive Tehran with commercial centres and residential neighbourhoods connected by highways.

This golden age of urban development also saw wealthy parts of Tehran bloom with privately financed construction.

That all changed in 1979. After the Iranian Revolution, Tehran turned inward, closing its gates to the West.

Tehrans short memory

Today, Iranian scholars, architects and intellectuals including Parshia Qaregozloo, who curated Irans pavilion at the 2016 Venice biennial and Leila Araghian, architect of Tehrans new high-tech Tabiat bridge and Ali Mozaffari, founding co-editor of the Berghahn Explorations in Heritage Studies book series are raising concerns that the nation may have too short a cultural memory.

Many notable mid-century buildings have been neglected in the past decade, including the ornate Sabet Pasal mansion in Tehran, known as Irans Palace of Versailles, which narrowly avoided being demolished in 2015. And the 1966 Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Morvarid (Pearl) Palace, in the city of Karaj, which once belonged to the Shahs sister, Shams Pahlavi.

The Pearl Palace in Karaj, Iran. Credit: Ararat-tehran/Wikimedia, CC BY-NC

Important private residences in Tehran are also at risk of destruction. In the affluent Zaferanieh neighbourhood, these include the former home of Queen Turan, the wife of Reza Shah (father or Irans last shah), and a villa frequented by Forough Farrokhzad, an Iranian poetess and film director of the 1960s, as well as the Panahi House, which was designed by the French architect Roland Dubrulle.

Villa Namazee

Villa Namazee is probably the most iconic of all the endangered contemporary structures. Designed by Milan-based architect and industrial designer Giovanni Ponti (1891-1979), one of the leading figures of Postwar Italian modernism (and the founder of Domus magazine), the villa has an open plan, a suspended roof and external openings protected by wide overhanging eaves.

Ponti, who built Italys first skyscraper, was known for his value of classical order, integrity of building materials, new production techniques and sensitivity to designing around both human need and environmental conditions.

In 1957, he was commissioned by the wealthy Namazee family to design a residence in the affluent Niavaran district to the north of Tehrans foothills, in collaboration with Fausto Melotti (1901-1986) and Paolo De Poli (1905-1996). The house has sliding doors and internal windows that offer full cross-views, and it demonstrates the same inventive joie de vivre style as Pontis projects in Caracas, Venezuela (the Villa Planchart and the Villa Arreaza).

In 2007, Villa Namazee was registered as national heritage, but it was acquired by a new owner four years ago and removed from the list, paving the way for the construction of a 20-storey luxury hotel.

Portis other work in the Middle East was the office of the ministry of planning in Baghdad, built in 1957. Its enormous outdoors portico and greyish blue ceramic tiles were partly destroyed in the Iraq war.

Why do we need to save modern heritage?

When the government removes historic structures such as the Villa Namazee from its national heritage list, it demonstrates a worrisome privileging of certain moments in its past over others that also have cultural value.

Many Iranians remain attached to these modernist symbols, and there have been significant efforts to save them in recent years. Some Iranian activists, calling themselves the Peoples Committee for Conservation of Historical Houses in Tehran, have launched a website defending Tehrans landmarks.

Public outcry against the plan to raze the Villa Namazee has been fierce. Petitions to save it were circulated globally and supported by UNESCO and the Germany-based International Committee for Documentation, and the Conservation of Buildings and Sites and Neighbourhoods of the Modern Movement, among other international organisations. This well-publicised case may also help save other modern buildings in the future.

The destruction of such structures erases all signs of contemporary Tehrans modernist heritage. Mid-century residences and office buildings are not only physical links to a time when Iran opened its doors to the West, they are also memories of the aristocrats of the past regime, and of radical poets and writers and intellectuals, whose ways of life are much less visible in Iran today.

Asma Mehan is a research fellow at Deakin University and a PhD Candidate at Politecnico di Torino, Politecnico di Torino.

This article was originally published on The Conversation. Read the original article.

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In Razing Its Modernist Buildings, Iran Is Erasing Its Past Western Influence - The Wire